Mastering Cursed Tank Simulator Artillery: The Ultimate Big Gun Guide
Learn how to dominate Cursed Tank Simulator with artillery builds. Discover the best guns, turrets, hulls, and ammo strategies.
If you want to dominate the battlefield from across the map, mastering cursed tank simulator artillery is your ticket to absolute chaos. In a game defined by bizarre, custom vehicle builds, deploying a devastating cursed tank simulator artillery setup lets you rain down destruction without ever exposing your hull to direct enemy fire. Whether you are lobbing massive high-explosive shells over hills or using high-penetration rounds to crack open heavily armored targets, indirect fire remains one of the most satisfying playstyles in the game. But succeeding with these oversized cannons requires more than just pointing and shooting; you need to understand shell velocity, drop, and vehicle synergy.
To start building your own custom war machine, head over to the official Roblox page for Cursed Tank Simulator and jump into the garage. In this guide, we will break down the best guns, optimal ammo choices, and key tactical strategies to help you turn the tide of any match.
The Role of Indirect Fire in Cursed Tank Simulator
In Cursed Tank Simulator, matches are often decided by who controls the high ground and key chokepoints. Traditional tanks must peek over ridges or turn corners to engage, exposing their weak spots to waiting defenders. Artillery builds bypass this dynamic entirely by firing from behind solid cover, using high-arc trajectories to strike targets that cannot shoot back.
This playstyle is highly tactical and relies heavily on map knowledge. Because you are often firing blindly or relying on your crosshair's rangefinder, you must learn to predict enemy movements. A well-placed artillery shell can break up an enemy push, destroy entrenched defenders, or force snipers to abandon their positions.
However, playing as artillery also makes you a prime target. Fast light tanks and flankers will constantly search the backlines for stationary targets. To survive, you must balance your offensive capabilities with defensive positioning, mobility, and recoil management.
Top Artillery Guns and How to Unlock Them
When building a custom rig, selecting the right cursed tank simulator artillery piece can make or break your playstyle. The game features a massive selection of historical, modern, and completely fictional cannons, each with unique performance profiles. Some guns favor raw explosive yield, while others offer faster reload speeds or better shell velocity.
Here is a breakdown of the most popular artillery-style guns currently available in the dealership:
| Gun Name | Caliber | Tier | Primary Shell Types | Key Feature |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 203mm 2A44 | 203mm | High | HE, HEAT | Massive splash damage, extremely long reload time. |
| 190mm Bruh | 190mm | Mid/High | HE, AP | Fictional heavy gun with devastating close-to-mid range impact. |
| 38cm Doomsday | 380mm | High | HE | Unmatched explosive radius, heavy projectile drop. |
| 100mm 2A70 | 100mm | Mid | HE, ATGM | Versatile gun capable of firing both shells and guided missiles. |
| 10.5cm Ikonisch | 105mm | Mid | HE, HEAT, AP | Balanced performance with decent reload speed and drop. |
The Heavy Hitters
Guns like the 203mm 2A44 and the 38cm Doomsday are the definition of "derp" weapons. They carry massive payloads capable of one-shotting almost any tank in the game, even if you do not score a direct hit. The splash damage alone can strip away external modules, damage tracks, and knock out crew members.
The trade-off for this power is a grueling reload time and severe recoil. If your tank is too light, firing these weapons can literally flip your vehicle upside down or push you back several meters.
Light and Rapid-Fire Support
If you prefer a more active playstyle, smaller caliber guns like the 100mm 2A70 or the 10.5cm Ikonisch offer a middle ground. While they lack the map-erasing splash of the 203mm, they allow you to adjust your aim quickly and punish targets that try to escape your firing arc. They are also much easier to mount on medium hulls.
Shell Selection: Making the Most of HEAT and HE
Your choice of ammunition is just as important as the gun you choose. In the community, player reports and gameplay videos often highlight the debate between High Explosive (HE) and High-Explosive Anti-Tank (HEAT) rounds. In fact, many players prefer the sheer splash damage of high-explosive rounds, but utilizing cursed tank simulator artillery with HEAT shells is a popular community strategy for cracking heavy armor at a distance.
Here is how the main shell types compare for indirect fire roles:
| Ammo Type | Penetration | Splash Radius | Velocity | Best Used Against |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| HE (High Explosive) | Very Low | Extremely High | Low | Lightly armored vehicles, open-topped turrets, grouped enemies. |
| HEAT (High-Explosive Anti-Tank) | High | Medium | Medium | Heavily armored MBTs, stationary targets at mid-range. |
| AP / APFSDS | Very High | None | High | Direct engagements, moving targets (requires direct line of sight). |
The Power of HEAT
HEAT shells combine decent armor penetration with a moderate explosive yield. Unlike kinetic rounds (like APFSDS), HEAT does not lose penetration value over long distances. This makes it incredibly effective for lobbing over obstacles onto the thin roof armor of enemy tanks. When your shell lands on top of a turret, it easily bypasses the thick frontal armor plates.
The Reliability of HE
If you are struggling to hit targets directly, stick to HE. You do not need to penetrate the enemy's armor to be useful. Firing a 203mm HE shell near an enemy tank can destroy their tracks, gun barrel, and optics, leaving them completely vulnerable to your teammates.
Crafting the Perfect Artillery Build
To build a successful artillery tank, you cannot just slap a giant gun onto any chassis. You need a balanced combination of hull, turret, and gun. Your hull must be heavy enough to absorb the massive recoil of your weapon, while your turret needs excellent vertical elevation to aim high into the sky.
Here are three community-recommended builds for different tiers and playstyles:
| Build Name | Hull | Turret | Gun | Playstyle |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| The Siege Engine | Taranis (Heavy) | High-Elevation Turret | 203mm 2A44 | Long-range, high-damage indirect fire from spawn. |
| The Mobile Mortar | Leopard or Abrams | Modern Medium Turret | 10.5cm Ikonisch | Shoot-and-scoot, active support, mid-range flanking. |
| The Meme Machine | Light/Meme Hull | Open-Top Turret | 38cm Doomsday | Close-range ambush, high risk, hilarious results. |
Recoil and Weight Management
When using heavy guns, heavy hulls like the Taranis are highly valued by the community. A heavy chassis acts as an anchor, preventing your gun from throwing off your alignment after every shot. If you try to mount a 203mm gun on a light wheeled chassis, you will find yourself sliding across the map or flipping over on uneven terrain.
Turret Selection
Always look at the gun elevation limits when choosing a turret. Standard MBT turrets often have limited upward tilt, which restricts your ability to lob shells over tall obstacles. Look for specialized turrets, open-topped mounts, or historical artillery turrets that allow for steep firing angles.
Advanced Aiming and Positioning Strategies
Learning the trajectory of your shell is the most challenging aspect of playing cursed tank simulator artillery effectively. Because you cannot always see your target directly, you must rely on alternative aiming methods and UI tools.
Using the Rangefinder and Third-Person Camera
To hit targets behind cover, use your third-person camera to peek over obstacles while keeping your tank hidden. Use the built-in rangefinder to measure the distance to the enemy's cover or their last known position.
Once you have the distance, tilt your gun upward and use the distance markings on your reticle to adjust for drop. It takes practice, but once you memorize the drop patterns of your favorite guns, you can hit targets consistently.
Map Positioning
Different maps offer varying degrees of cover, which directly impacts how you position your cursed tank simulator artillery build. You want to find spots that offer solid cover from direct fire but have clear clearance above you so your shells do not hit low-hanging arches, trees, or cave roofs.
| Map Type | Artillery Viability | Best Positions | Key Hazards |
|---|---|---|---|
| Open Desert | High | Behind sand dunes, near spawn borders. | Enemy snipers, lack of hard cover. |
| Urban / City | Medium | Behind tall buildings, down long alleyways. | Debris blocking high-angle shots, close-range flankers. |
| Mountainous | Extremely High | Deep valleys, behind steep ridges. | Extreme elevation angles required, difficult driving terrain. |
Always remember to relocate after firing a few shots. Experienced players will trace the smoke trails of your shells back to your position and counter-battery fire or send a fast light tank to eliminate you.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best hull to pair with cursed tank simulator artillery guns?
According to player reports, heavy hulls like the Taranis or high-tier main battle tank chassis are the best choices. They provide the weight and suspension strength needed to absorb the massive recoil of high-caliber guns, keeping your tank stable and preserving your aim.
How do I aim cursed tank simulator artillery over hills?
To aim over hills, you need to utilize your third-person camera to spot targets and use the rangefinder to calculate the distance. Once you have the distance, elevate your gun to match the corresponding drop line on your sight reticle. Firing in a high arc allows the shell to clear the hill and drop directly onto the target.
Is HEAT better than HE for indirect fire?
It depends on your playstyle. HEAT is excellent for dealing direct damage to heavily armored targets because it retains its penetration over distance. However, HE is much more forgiving because of its massive splash radius, allowing you to damage and disable enemies even if you miss them slightly.
How do I stop my tank from flipping when I fire?
If your tank flips or rolls backward when you shoot, your gun is too heavy for your current hull. You can fix this by upgrading to a heavier chassis, choosing a gun with less recoil, or adding suspension upgrades to your vehicle build in the garage.
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